Destinations

Six valleys we know by heart

Altitudes, seasons and the handful of things in each place that are genuinely worth your morning.

Srinagar, Kashmir
The floating city
01

Srinagar

Dal Lake wakes at 5am: vegetable sellers paddle between the lotus beds, samovars hiss on the houseboat decks, and the Zabarwan hills turn copper.

1,585 m April – October
  • Sunrise floating market
  • Nishat & Shalimar Bagh
  • Jamia Masjid & the old city
  • Nigeen Lake houseboats
Gulmarg, Kashmir
Meadow of flowers, kingdom of snow
02

Gulmarg

Asia's highest gondola drops you at 3,980 m on Apharwat. In winter it is legendary powder; in summer it is a green bowl ringed by pine and cloud.

2,650 m December – March / June – September
  • Gondola Phase II
  • Backcountry skiing
  • Alpather Lake trek
  • Golf at 2,650 m
Pahalgam, Kashmir
Valley of shepherds
03

Pahalgam

The Lidder roars through deodar forest. Ride up to Baisaran, camp at Aru, and eat trout you watched come out of the river an hour earlier.

2,200 m March – November
  • Betaab Valley
  • Baisaran meadow
  • Aru & Chandanwari
  • Lidder trout fishing
Sonmarg, Kashmir
Meadow of gold
04

Sonmarg

The gateway to the Great Lakes trek. Thajiwas glacier sits an hour's walk away and Gujjar shepherds still move their herds over Zoji La every summer.

2,800 m June – September
  • Thajiwas glacier
  • Great Lakes trek
  • Zoji La pass
  • Nichnai wildflowers
Pampore, Kashmir
The saffron town
05

Pampore

For three weeks each autumn the plateau turns violet. Families harvest before sunrise, then sort stigmas by hand on the floor of the family room.

1,574 m October – November
  • Crocus harvest
  • Saffron grading houses
  • Kahwa tasting
  • Kani shawl studios
Tulip Garden, Kashmir
Asia's largest tulip bloom
06

Tulip Garden

1.7 million bulbs on the slope between the Zabarwan hills and Dal Lake, open for barely three weeks before the almond blossom takes over.

1,590 m Late March – mid April
  • Tulip Festival
  • Badamwari almond garden
  • Cheshma Shahi springs
  • Pari Mahal
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